Starting, battery and electrics

Engine cranks but will not start: causes and what to do

If the starter turns the engine normally when you turn the key or press the button but the engine never fires, something the combustion needs is missing. It is usually fuel, spark or preheating, the signal from a sensor such as the crankshaft sensor, or the immobilizer's permission.

Check without hurryStarting, battery and electrics

Reviewed by Daniel Morales, founder of Reprorace SL, on

Is it serious? Can I keep driving?

Usually not urgent, but do not ignore it. There is no risk while the car is parked somewhere safe. Do not keep cranking for long: you can flatten the battery and, on gasoline engines, flood the engine or damage the catalytic converter with unburnt fuel.

A careful, general answer: only someone who inspects the car can say whether it is safe to drive. When in doubt, stop somewhere safe and call for assistance.

Most likely causes

  1. Fuel: an empty tank even if the gauge shows some, a pump that does not work or a clogged filter.
  2. Immobilizer: the key is not recognized; a light with a key or a padlock usually flashes.
  3. Crankshaft or camshaft sensor: without its signal the control unit neither injects nor sparks.
  4. Preheating on a diesel: in the cold, failed glow plugs make starting very hard.
  5. Timing belt or chain: if it has broken, the engine turns more freely and sounds different; stop trying.

Listed from more to less common in general; on your car they may be different. A fault-code reading and a check at the garage confirm which one it is.

What you can check yourself

  1. Make sure there is fuel; if the gauge was low, add a few liters.

  2. See whether the immobilizer light flashes and try the spare key.

  3. When you switch the ignition on, listen for the fuel pump humming for a couple of seconds (on many cars you can hear it).

  4. Make short attempts of a few seconds, resting the battery in between.

Safe checks only: with the engine off and cold whenever you look under the hood, without taking anything apart and without touching hot or moving parts.

Related fault codes

  • P0335Crankshaft position sensor A, circuit: malfunction
  • P0340Camshaft position sensor A (bank 1 or single sensor), circuit: malfunction
  • P0016Correlation fault between crankshaft position and camshaft position (bank 1, sensor A)
  • P0087Fuel rail/system pressure: too low (bank 1)
  • P0627Fuel pump A, control circuit open
  • P0190Fuel rail pressure sensor (bank 1), circuit: malfunction

Generic codes that often come with this symptom. Seeing one does not confirm the cause: it is where the diagnosis starts.

All fault codes

How the ECO-LITE helps diagnose it

Plugged into the OBD socket, the ECO-LITE reads the fault codes of the control units that answer, with the freeze-frame data captured when the fault happened, and shows live data on your phone or computer. With your permission, your garage can see them remotely before you bring the car in.

What to look at here: engine speed signal while cranking, fuel pressure, system voltage while cranking and coolant temperature.

Frequently asked questions

Why will it not start if the battery is fine?

Because the battery only turns the starter. Starting also needs fuel, spark or glow plugs, and the control unit receiving its signals.

How long can I keep trying to start it?

Attempts of a few seconds with pauses. Persisting flattens the battery and can overheat the starter.

Does the fault code help if it will not start?

Yes: codes can be read with the ignition on. P0335 (crankshaft), P0340 (camshaft) or P0087 (fuel pressure) are common clues.

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